Imperial Home Page -> Repair -> Axle -> Carrier Assembly
Question from Abigwar:
I'm wondering if anybody can tell me where I can find a carrier bearing assembly for my '64 Crown Coupe.
Reply from Bob:
From my page on motor mounts, these guys do the carrier bearings also: http://teamchicago.com/imperial/impmm.htm Re-bonding (re-vulcanizing) - The Damper Doctor, 1055 Parkview Ave. Redding, CA 96001-3314; phone 530-246-2984, fax 530-246-2987 confirmed that they can re-bond these motor mounts: "I not only do motor mounts - which by the way have gone to $99.95 each or $170.00/ pair, these things use a lot of rubber - I also do harmonic balancers and drive shaft supports for these cars. John http://members.aol.com/damperdoc/ Damper Doctor- Your source for engine and motor harmonic balances and dampers." In late May, 1999, I found another, very knowledgeable source that can also rebuild your mounts or cores: Antique Auto Parts Cellar PO Box 3, 6 Chauncy St. South Weymouth MA 02190 Phone 781-335-1579 Fax 781-335-1925 They explained that there are 3 Chrysler/Imperial mounts that resemble each other, only differing in the attachment to the frame (2120237/2120238, 2128571/2128572 and ?*) but they rebuild all three - just check carefully if you have bought old mounts as cores to make sure you have the right mount. The cost is $145/pair and they will do one, if that's all you need. This vendor offers re-vulcanizing for many other MOPAR engine, transmission and driveline mounts.
Tip from Dave:
Well, it finally happened! The temperature actually got up to 73 AND the sun was shining at the same time here in Western NY! Yesterday was pretty dismal and the wife was taking a day trip, so I took the opportunity to get the "Shark" up on the stands and see what I could do about the drive line noise at take off. I got the drive shaft out (not easy without dropping the dual exhaust, but it is possible) and sure enough, the rubber and steel in this very simple device had parted company. Also... as expected...everyone that I talked to looked at me like a dog watching a fan when I showed them what I wanted. But there IS hope! I very gingerly clamped the assembly to the table of my drill press, after ensuring that it was lined up properly, very securely (you need to compress the rubber a little bit, but don't go overboard). Then I proceeded to drill a 1/4" hole down near the bottom of the rear plate (the one with the feet on it) where it begins to widen, but VERY close to the inside diameter of the plate. (If you don't you'll miss the mark on the front ring edge and end up walking the drill off the backside of the front ring and getting a half a hole!) I repeated this on the opposite side of the bracket at the same height. Into these holes I installed 1/4" X 20 X 1 1/2" bolts with flat washers at the head end and split locks under the nuts. (A note here...install the bolts from the rear of the assembly or the overhanging bolt/nut will interfere with your already tight clearances when you get ready to bolt it back under the car). I re-installed the whole assembly (make sure you put all of the shims back under the mounting feet that came out or you will have alignment noise from the shaft) and drove the car down the road in total silence! Well, when I told Momma the good news this morning, she insisted that we immediately do a thorough QA drive (just to be sure that I did it right, of course) and she was delighted! The warning from Nancy Kramer is correct...if you intend to drag race these 5000+ lb. beasts, then don't even consider this procedure...but as a temporary fix for those of us who are a bit more sedate and don't want our babies laid up for a month while we locate/procure a new one, this will work just fine, provided that the rubber and steel are both in good shape and have just separated.
Tip from Tony:
I was chatting with a very good friend here in San Diego named Dick Kretschmer, who owns a beautiful '62 Crown 4-door hardtop in Caramel brown. He told me that he had successfully had a drive shaft carrier-bearing rebuilt!
1055 Parkview Avenue
Redding, CA 96001-3314
This company installs new, modern-style neoprene rubber onto engine vibration dampers and vulcanizes it - They also have begun rebuilding carrier-bearings, which have been dismayingly rare and expensive - I've paid as much as $400 for a brand-new convertible-style Imperial carrier bearing in the past. Dick said it cost him around $90 to have his done.
Tip from Jeff:
My brother's 58 4dr had a problem with the carrier bearing for several years. We ended up with a solution that seems to be working. We bought small metal clamps and clamped the two sides together. So far it seems to be holding well (except when the U-joint went out). It is not elegant and it will not win any shows but it seems to do the trick. We have looked quite a bit for a new bearing and have not had any luck yet. Nancy Kramer told us that the 58 4dr HT with the X-frame is unique to 57-58? (Correct me if I am wrong Nancy)
Follow-up from Nancy:
You're correct the X frame cars are like the convert and the '58 and '57 4 door hardtops are X frame cars. The solution of screwing it together will work for awhile especially if you don't drive too much and don't get on it too hard. We in the IML ought to look at having these things remanufactured as they are really needed to continue to ride. Mitchell Motor Parts had this done a while back but I think many were destroyed in their fire and as far as I know they haven't had any more made. Will check them at Spring Carlisle.
Do you need the support or the bearing that goes inside it. If you need the bearing I believe the one for a '58 is different that for some of the later ones. I believe that the break is in '64 somewhere. Early '64s are like the earlier cars and late '64s are like '65 and '66. They also did this with universal joints I believe as some early '64s don't have constant Velocity joints yet. They had a lot of running changes in '64 which makes it real interesting to get parts for them sometimes.
If your Imperial has an X frame (i.e. if it is a 4-door hardtop), you must use a convertible carrier support. If it is a sedan or any other model that does not have an X frame you I think that you should be able to use the '66 support. Basically supports are of two types those for X frame cars and those for non X frame cars. The X frame cars were all '57 and '58 4 door hardtops and all convertibles. Everything else is non X frame.
Question from Timothy (1960):
Last fall, my '60 Imperial started making a horrible rasping sound from what seems to be the center drive line, it's definitely not the brakes, rear end, or tranny. So I figured that it must be the CC bearing. Am I off base on my assumption?
I am a bit intimidated by the whole thing since I will be doing the work myself and I have never played around with drive shafts of any stripe, much less one that's double jointed, as it were.
Is there a way to tell if one needs to replace the center carrier bearing only or if the housing is a problem too before tearing it all apart?
I am trying to start planning my spring "coming out of the barn" repairs and want to lineup the parts ahead of time if possible, especially since it seems that the housing is more often rebuilt that replaced.
You can get a rebuilt "housing" and new carrier bearing from Lowell Howe. He has this part remanufactured and sells an excellent product. No matter which is bad I would go ahead and replace both. Getting this puppy out isn't really complicated but I am quite sure I learned a few new cuss words during the process.
Make sure you mark the drive shaft as you take it apart. You want to put everything back exactly as it was! If you get things out of alignment on the drive shaft you will develop vibration problems.
Lowell Howe's phone/fax number is 209-892-3464 in California. He will want your carrier bearing & mounting bracket FIRST. Then he will rebuild it and send it back with a new bearing and new rubber attached to the mounting bracket.
I replaced my carrier bearing on my '61 Crown a few years ago. When I got the car on the rack and looked, the rubber was just about completely broken loose from the mounting bracket. It easy to remove the drive shafts and carrier bearing and put them back, BUT MARK THE ORIENTATION OF BOTH SHAFTS to get the shafts back together properly to maintain the original balance conditions.
Question from Ed (1964):
Is a remanufactured carrier bearing support available for the convertible? How about the idler arm? I know they are different on Imperial convertibles.
Lowell Howe has them. Great product from a great guy. You can find him under the parts vendors section of the web page.
The vendor for carrier bearing supports is:
Question from Phil (1965 versus 1966):
Can anyone tell me if a '65 Imperial carrier bearing will work in a '66 Imperial??
Reply from Mike:
I believe so, YES! The actual bearing itself is the same for '65-'66.
Question from Joe (1966):
Does anyone know if part is this year, this model only? Is there any drawing or pic of this part to give my mechanic? Is it the same for any other model or year??
Reply from Mark:
Give a call to Lowell Howe. He should be able to help you since he re-manufactures these things.
Question from Joe (1966):
Does anyone know who has the carrier support bearing for my Imperial?
About the Carrier Bearing itself....NAPA Auto Parts can get the actual BEARING , and I am sure if you checked with your local Auto Parts Suppliers they could also do the same, if not try a Bearing Supplier. If you mean that your Center Bearing Carrier Support has deteriorated to the point where it has (un)vulcanized and is no longer shtuck(vulcanized) to the surrounding metal so as to cause vibration and shudder on acceleration, then I know of "1" place here in Massachusetts that can (re)vulcanize your part for you. The name of the business is "Then and Now Auto" and their phone number is 781-335-8860. The cost for the revulcanization process is "around $150.00" (when I called this morning the person who does the process , TOM, sets the price but he was not in at the time but will return later this afternoon and the person I spoke to estimated the cost as there are several styles for the older Chrysler products and the mold is differrent for each).If you also need a new bear! ing( it makes sense to install a new one at the time anywa y) figure an average of between $175.00 to $225.00. Call them later and ask for Tom stating you need to get a quote on a center bearing support revulcanization. They also have a website at http://www.then-now.com/. These people have been there for years and are very good.
This is the best option I have found. My local auto parts was able to have the carrier support repaired, and the new bearing was no problem. I think that this is better than NOS considering that the NOS part is now nearly 40 years old.
Many Imperials exhibited this problem when they were less than 10 years old, and some even with low miles. There must have been some "sub-standard vulcaniz(ing)" going on in the mid-60's. In my mother's '60, for some reason the bearing itself failed when the car was less than one year old.
Given that this part for a convertible is non-existent or costs three times the price, having the old one rebuilt is an excellent alternative. Just don't destroy the original parts with a welding torch, or by running the car until the support and the bearing actually disintegrate.
You can contact the "Damper Doctor". Two years ago we needed to repair our totally shot drive shaft center support, I bought the sealed bearing from NAPA, and sent it to him along with my center support housing. He used my supplied bearing and re-vulcanized the assembly for about $85.00. Did a great job in less than two-weeks.
Try Lowell Howe. He has these in stock for all the various Imperial models. I can't remember what I paid for mine but he had it to me in two days and it was perfect. You might want to give him a call.
Lowell Howe has these, just be sure to send the old one beck to him for a fifty dollar rebate.
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