Paint and Body Work 101

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More Rust repair and body work

Wednesday 22 January, 2003


Wednesday was cold but clear.  Robert should be about mid day for the rest of the week..  Spent about 4 hours getting ready to get ready and doing things that Robert has already seen.  He wanted me to wait on cancer and dent repair so he could watch. 

In the meantime, I worked on the back side of the decklid.  Some rust in the fold was wirebrushed and treated with killer prior to wiping down the whole panel.   

Jan22-1.jpg (30402 bytes) Jan22-2.jpg (55963 bytes) Some rust in the trunk channel was also handled with the wire brush and rust killer.

Jan22-3.jpg (32166 bytes) I then sprayed the inside of the trunk and the decklid with Urethane in the new color.  Looks pretty good.

Jan22-24.jpg (51874 bytes) While I had the decklid off, I painted it with the Urethane that will be the material used for all the jambs, engine compartment, trunk, etc.  Basecoat/Clear on the exterior.  It's hard to see the color in this photo but it looks pretty good!

Every spot of rust was ground down to bare metal and then dabbed with rust killer. This is the roof in process.  Leprosy! Jan22-4.jpg (18272 bytes) Jan22-16.jpg (28529 bytes)  This is a new product and I LOVE it.  It is a urethane putty for filling door dings etc.  I will use it to bring the spots I ground out back up to paint level.  The old version of this was lacquer based and would outgas for 30 days.  This causes non-porous paints like Urethanes and Clears to lift.  Been there, done that, never again.  This stuff sets in 20 minutes and is DONE!  No outgassing.

Jan22-18.jpg (32974 bytes) I cut a spreader into 1" wide pieces so I could spread small areas.  Make sure you mix the hardener in completely.

Jan22-19.jpg (26537 bytes)  Lots of ways to sand it down.  This a board sander.  After a few minutes it looks like this.

Jan22-20.jpg (15156 bytes)  Jan22-23.jpg (12513 bytes)  The only blue spots should be in the holes you ground.  Anything else will be ABOVE the surface of the paint and you will see it in the primer or topcoat.  You want to spread the sanding over the broad area.  Otherwise you will make a low spot that will show up later. 

Jan22-22.jpg (54292 bytes)A tip for cutting sandpaper.  Lots of tools require 1/3 sheets.  Fold into 3 equal pieces and cut FROM THE BACK with a sharp utility knife.  If you cut from the front, you will dull your knife in a heartbeat.  I lay it on a piece of scrap wood and cut down the fold line.  

Jan22-25.jpg (32482 bytes) Jan22-26.jpg (50024 bytes) This is one of the two major body work problems.  Someone backed over something and crunched in the right rear quarter about 2 inches.  Even the inner fender panel is pushed in although it doesn't show in the photo.

Jan22-29.jpg (26613 bytes)  The other side has it's own problem, CANCER. That black spot by my finger is a hole and most the rust spots are also.  Only one way to fix rust right, cut it out and weld in new metal.  The grinder with a cutoff saw took care of that and left this hole.

Jan22-30.jpg (40316 bytes) Jan22-31.jpg (49012 bytes)  The reason for the cancer was obvious when the piece was removed.  Crap fell out for 10 minutes.  Mainly rust and pieces of the petrified rubber mat.  The pat had plugged the drain hole ( you can see it in the photo.  There is a rubber plug with a vent for drainage) and allowed moisture to be trapped.  Pretty common problem.

Jan22-32.jpg (49140 bytes)  On the dent we decided I needed to get to the backside of the panel to work the dent out.  Since the inner rocker was in the way it needed to move.  Robert FINALLY got in about 3pm and was immediately put to work drilling out the spot welds.  Note the safety glasses.

Jan22-34.jpg (59653 bytes) Then we pushed the inner panel up out of the way.

Jan22-37.jpg (32519 bytes) The dents were pushed back out CAREFULLY with hammers and dollies.  On some of the area I could not get enough leverage so I used a pneumatic rivet gun (air hammer on steroids) with a custom made die in it.  The whole process took about an hour.

Jan22-39.jpg (51103 bytes)  The thing I am holding is a contour gauge.  I got it from Eastwood several years ago and it's really handy for comparing surfaces.  Both sides have holes where the trim was attached that I used for reference points.  I put the guage on the good side and pressed the plastic in until it matched the contour.  When carried over to the bad side, I could see what needed to be done.  Here you can see that there is a gap between the panel and the guage which means I need to raise the metal a little more. 

Jan22-40.jpg (33763 bytes)  Kind of hard to tell but this is pretty straight and will only need a skim coat of filler. Jan22-41.jpg (43079 bytes) So we sanded it down to metal wiped down with rust killer and called it a night.

Time today was 14 hours ( Counting Robert as a helper at 1/2 time)


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